“When Angkorian society began, Paris and London were not much more than elaborate villages. Europe was crawling with barbarians, and here were the Khmer engineering sophisticated irrigation systems and constructing the biggest temple in the world.” Kim Fay in The Map of Lost Memories sums up the fascination and wonders of Siem Reap, Cambodia.
The country’s natural beauty, history, strife and the resilience of the Khmer people make Cambodia one of my favorite lands.
Like its neighbor, Thailand, there are plenty of smiles to go around.
I had fears that the Cambodians would not welcome a Statey (United States citizen) after our dubious history including the bombings during the war in Vietnam and the U.S. Government’s roles during the Khmer Rouge and the Killing Fields.
Looking at the remains of some of the millions of people who were killed during that time is beyond chilling. My posts are not political but sometimes stating facts makes it sound as if I’m being political. I’m sure we can all agree war sucks and that’s especially true when innocent people are killed.
Speaking of politics, the Khmer people also have quite a sense of humor in their own lives, politics and even marketing. That humor is on display above in a sign for a Mexican restaurant that reads: “Mexican food so good, Trump wants to build a wall around it.” Clever.
I got my visa on arrival. Getting an on-arrival visa always makes me nervous due to the possibility of getting turned around at the border. It only took about a half-hour but my ride was awaiting me. The ground transportation was part of my Airbnb which only cost about 22 USD per night.
My apartment was in the heart of Siem Reap, on the second floor of the building. There was no lift but a set of easy-to-climb steps. The apartment has a sizable living room, lockable bedroom, kitchenette, bathroom with a shower and a balcony. It had everything I needed including some ice-cold air conditioning. That’s always a big concern of mine when I’m in Southeast Asia. Many of my friends ask me how I can love Southeast Asia with my slight heat intolerance. It’s not too bad when I’m just wearing shorts, but it would be unbearable to me if I had to wear a suit.
There are familiar places to a Westerner such as Burger King. “Same. Same. But different.” That’s a saying throughout Southeast Asia that if you’ve ever been you understand thoroughly. Yes, there’s a Burger King. But it is different with certain menu items. Plus I think there are foods served in the U.S. (if you want to call them foods), that many other countries have banned.
From the street food to the fancy or sit-down restaurants, there’s something for everyone.
I’m just as happy getting food from a street vendor as I am being served multiple fine dining courses at Cuisine Wat Damnak.
Obviously, Angkor Wat and the scattered ruins are some of the most important things to see while visiting Siem Reap. I had a special encounter at Angkor. I got there early to watch the sunrise, which is a popular activity. I’d even categorize sunrise at Angkor as a must-see.
As I was watching the magnificent sunrise, a dog came over and sat about 3 meters from me. I spoke to him and shortly thereafter he moved closer to me; less than a meter away. As I watched the sunrise, I looked over at my new canine friend and gave his matted filthy coat of hair a rub and scratch. I could see the reflection of the sunrise in his eyes. The dog was not looking at me. He was actually watching the sunrise! I found this slightly odd because as far as I can understand, the dog lives there. As much as I respect and love animals, I’ve never believed they could be interested in something as ethereal as a sunrise. We shared a moment I now consider prized as we watched the sunrise together over Angkor Wat. I don’t know how the dog felt about it, but I remain moved and well-impressed.
Angkor Wat translates to “capital city temple.” Inside the nearly one thousand-year-old temple and compound, visitors traverse the ruins, meander the maze of corridors and crannies and climb stairs that are almost as steep as a ladder. I have to caution anyone with any physical impairments to be advised of this. It’s easy to get halfway up and regret your decision. Despite my hardware and body damage, I was able to make it. There were times when it was more work than pleasure. The beauty and overall experience, however, was well worth any discomfort or even pain.
Damage from heavy artillery, including 105 mm Howitzer fire during the fighting, is still visible on the walls and columns of Angkor. I’m not a munitions expert but some of the pockmarks look like .50 caliber fire. It makes one wonder what this unique spot of the world looked like in its splendor of newness in the 12th and 13th Centuries.
I bought the three-day pass for less than 70 USD and it gave me all access to all of the parks, wats and ruins. It was beyond worth it.
You may also experience fellow primates climbing on you, “sharing” your food and sometimes snatching your belongings.
My guide, Mr. Bunthab, had his sunglasses stolen by a monkey who then absconded up a tree with said glasses. It was hilarious watching Bunthab climbing the tree to retrieve the sunglasses. You should also look him up as he was a great guide who spent entire days and nights showing me around and giving great advice. Bunthab also helped me get an honest understanding of the Khmer people instead of a tourist’s thumbnail sketch.
Two small pigtail macaques wrestled around my feet. One climbed up my leg and body to rest and perhaps avoid the other monkeys. It was a remarkable experience and made for a great photo.
At my request, the guide also took me well off the beaten path into the villages that tourists don’t usually see.
The abject poverty in some areas is breathtaking as is the beauty of this land and the kindness of the people.
Speaking of that kindness, Bunthab took me to what appeared to be a streetside restaurant. and into their home.
It was, but it was also the home to a family who were friends with Bunthab. They welcomed me into their restaurant and into their home. We feasted for hours, making this one of my favorite Cambodian memories.
The little man of the house greeted me by shouting, “Hey, Barang!” Everyone got a huge laugh out of the greeting as I have been the only barang to ever be in his house. BTW, barang is a Khmer word that was/is used to refer to the French.” It is now the word they use for most Westerners. The more popular “farang” is used for most Western foreigners in Thailand.
It has also become a tradition in my more than 20 years of international travel to always take a moment to greet the cats.
My Airbnb came with a cat, the Boss, who comes and goes at his pleasure. The Boss took the time to visit with me.
I may soon elaborate on some other interesting experiences I had during this visit. I will return and stay much longer than a week. It’s my recommendation that you do the same.
