It was difficult to imagine anything that could take away the enveloping grief in Prague after Czechia’s worst-ever mass shooting on 21 December 2023.
Out of sorrow and respect, it has occurred to me that I should cancel my reservation made months ago at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise. I had been anticipating the experience at the Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s one of only two such recognized restaurants in the country, also known as the Czech Republic.
For many reasons, I’m very grateful that I did not cancel.
I arrived 30 minutes before my reserved time and checked in just to let them know I was there. I fully expected to be asked to return at the agreed-upon time and was going to explore the sights and sounds of the area for a half hour. Instead, they welcomed me, took my coat, scarf, and umbrella and escorted me directly to my seat.
“If you get a good ingredient, don’t kill it. You go to a restaurant these days and you get eight different garnishes, overcomplicated with textures and so forth.” – Albert roux
The restaurant does not feel stuffy and imposing but rather comfortable and friendly. The staff made me feel like a local “regular.”
The décor is earthy, with wooden tables featuring cross sections of trees showcasing their rings and, of course, ages.
Between the two options for the day, a three-course menu and the tasting menu, I chose the latter, along with the wine pairings.
The gastronomic journey began with a fresh local fruit and veg dish, which I was advised to eat with my fingers. That is my preferred method of eating foods that are easy and clean. I even prefer to have a clean salad that I can dip into dressings and the same with chicken wings.
It was followed by what I believe would be considered the amuse-bouche – only on a tasting menu, the term doesn’t apply.
It was a dish of pear, truffle and kale. This had me concerned because I only enjoy one of the three. Truffles have historically left an over-powering taste for my palate, and I’m of the age that I remember kale as a garnishment that was not eaten by humans but instead thrown in the trash bin. Despite this dish’s pleasing texture and taste, I still think the world has lost its collective mind with kale. The flavors were well-balanced and quite complementary. It was served with a delightfully fruity Hibernal 2021 Stanislav Charvat.
As is customary in exclusive restaurants, the servers seem clairvoyant. Without feeling hawkishly watched, the next tasting came just as I had a moment to finish and savor the aftertastes of the first.
A delicately poached catfish filet with pumpkin and ham appeared next.
Initially apprehensive about a departure from my usual American fried catfish, the poached alternative surprised and delighted me. The pumpkin brought a lively texture to the dish, and the ham provided the perfect touch of savory goodness. It was served with Frau Welt Blanc 2020 von der Vogelwalde. The Cuvée offered hints of apple and honeydew melon, an ideal accompaniment for the fish.
The kitchen and servers’ sleight of hand transitioned me to duck with beetroot and licorice.
The rare duck is reminiscent of my experiences at Süring in Bangkok, Thailand’s only restaurant to boast two Michelin Stars. The tender and juicy bird with a slightly crispy skin, combined with the other ingredients, surpassed expectations.
It was served with Overi 2021 Martin Vajčner red, often touted with Pinot Noir grapes trampled underfoot. I understand that the wine is not clarified or filtered and does not include sulfur.
Fallow deer, cabbage with rose hip, and blueberry snuck onto my table. The deer is sourced from northern Czechia, a reminder of the restaurant’s commitment to quality ingredients. The tender and succulent meat reflected the region’s culinary heritage and was served with Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2019 Rivetto with a slight hint of plum.
This was followed up by ice cream with rum and nuts served with Patience 2022 Utopia, a fun dessert ice cider.
Because I was sitting just outside of the front kitchen, I watched a half-dozen or so culinary professionals perform a seemingly impossible dance of delicate, time-sensitive, detail-oriented culinary magic.
Good food is like good family. In a 2020 interview with Michelin Guide, Chef De Cuisine Oldřich Sahajdák said the restaurant opened on 26th July 2006, the same day his son was born, “So, I always refer to it as my second son!” he said.
Vojtěch seemed to take a keen interest in ensuring my experience was sublime. His kindness and professionalism are beyond compare.
The artistry of the chefs, staff and servers, who performed more like presenters than wait staff, makes La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise well deserved for its Michelin Star and many other accolades.
One of many personal takeaways from this experience is to keep it simple. It’s about the ingredients. In the immortal words of legendary chef Albert Roux, “If you get a good ingredient, don’t kill it. You go to a restaurant these days and you get eight different garnishes, overcomplicated with textures and so forth.”
